CAMPYLOBACTERIOSIS‏

CAMPYLOBACTERIOSIS

It is commonly mistaken for Parvovirus, but needs different treatment. It's a BACTERIAL imbalance in the digestive tract. It is a disease that produces acute infectious diarrhea in puppies and kittens. This is NOT a new form of Parvo. Parvo tests will show a LOW positive & subsequent tests will continue to show low positives, will be inconclusive, or will give erratic results. This disease is so similar to Parvo, that some dogs have tested in the low positive for Parvo. But they do not have Parvo, and it has been recommended that three parvo tests are needed to exclude Parvo.

Mode of infection is varied, but mostly from contact with urine, feces, or something brought in on shoes, etc. It is also acquired by contact with contaminated food, water or, raw meat (poultry, beef). Symptoms usually start 12-48 hrs after initial contact & spread to susceptible dogs rapidly (young or weaker dogs). Signs of acute infection include vomiting and a watery, mucus, and sometimes bloody diarrhea. Pups have a difficult time surviving, but if caught quick enough (before anorexia), no one dies. Death occurs because of dehydration. Some dogs get better without treatment. Humans can contact this disease from animals. The incubation period is one to seven days. The disease usually runs its course in five to fifteen days.
Antibiotics may be advisable.

This disease can be tested for specifically, so if you have an affected dog that appears to have Parvo, but in your mind know that, that could not be possible, have them tested for "Camby". It is important to note that this disease can be transferred between humans, dogs, cats and other livestock. It starts with fecal mucus sheath & continues to get progressively softer until it is watery and contains blood. It then becomes explosive. Vomiting may accompany and may or may not also contain blood. Feces have a sweet/flowery aroma along with a "slaughterhouse on a summer day" smell (similar to parvo diarrhea but with a floral hint). Feces are usually mustard colored. Dogs dehydrate at an astounding rate. Dogs are also at risk
of intussusception .

Do NOT automatically assume Parvo when you see this. Parvo treatments have killed the majority of Campylobacteriosis dogs.

What is happening is that there is a bacterial growth in the digestive tract which throws it off balance. The body is trying to counteract this by removing the extra (or offending) bacteria. It seems to do this by trying to remove ALL body fluids as quickly as possible. Death is caused by massive dehydration. From the 1st signs of symptoms, death can be as short as 12 hrs, or as long as 7 days. The younger the dog, the worse it is. The key is to treat this as fast as possible before the dogs go anorexic AND to treat ALL dogs on the premises (erythromycin is the treatment of choice).

After the diarrhea has stopped, you can cram the dog as full of fluids as you want, just not when it is at its most fragile point. You don't want to shock an already shocked system. Also, DO NOT flea-dip/worm/vaccinate at this time, PLEASE!!!!! Anorexic dogs have to be tempted to eat again. Rare, bloody, slightly garlicky & slightly salty beef has worked the best in the past for getting the appetites working. Start small. You may have to give anorexic dogs Nutri-Cal to get them going again. But after they are cured they WILL begin to eat again.


Information compiled from "The dog owner's home veterinary handbook" and
"The 5-minute veterinary consult"

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List of just some of the things I must remember to be a good Dog.

1. I will not eat the cats' food before they eat it or after they throw it up.
2. I will not roll on dead seagulls, fish, crabs, etc. just because I like the way they smell .
3. The Litter Box is not a cookie jar.
4. The sofa is not a 'face towel'.
5. The garbage collector is not stealing our stuff.
6. I will not play tug-of-war with Dad's underwear when he's on the toilet.
7. Sticking my nose into someone's crotch is an unacceptable way of saying 'hello'.
8. I don't need to sudden ly stand straight up when I'm under the coffee table.
9. I must shake the rainwater out of my fur before entering the house - not after.
10. I will not come in from outside and immediately drag my butt.
11. I will not sit in the middle of the living room and lick my crotch.
12. The cat is not a 'squeaky toy' so when I play with him and he makes that noise, it's usually not a good thing.

Difference between Dog and Cat Diaries

Excerpts from a Dog's Diary..


8:00 am - Dog food! My favorite thing!
9:30 am - A car ride! My favorite thing!
9:40 am - A walk in the park! My favorite thing!
10:30 am - Got rubbed and petted! My favorite thing!
12:00 pm - Lunch! My favorite thing!
1:00 pm - Played in the yard! My favorite thing!
3:00 pm - Wagged my tail! My favorite thing!
5:00 pm - Milk bones! My favorite thing!
7:00 pm - Got to play ball! My favorite thing!
8:00 pm - Wow! Watched TV with the people! My favorite thing!
11:00 pm - Sleeping on the bed! My favorite thing!


Excerpts from a Cat's Diary


Day 983 of my captivity.
My captors continue to taunt me with bizarre little dangling objects.

They dine lavishly on fresh meat, while the other inmates and I are fed hash or some sort of dry nuggets. Although I make my contempt for the rations perfectly clear,
I nevertheless must eat something in order to keep up my strength.

The only thing that keeps me going is my dream of escape.

In an attempt to disgust them, I once again vomit on the carpet.

Today I decapitated a mouse and dropped its headless body at their feet. I had hoped this would strike fear into their hearts, since it clearly demonstrates what I am capable of. However, they merely made condescending comments about what a 'good little hunter' I am. Bastards.

There was some sort of assembly of their accomplices tonight. I was placed in solitary confinement for the duration of the event. However, I could hear the noises and smell the food. I overheard that my confinement was due to the power of 'allergies.' I must learn what this means and how to use it to my advantage..

Today I was almost successful in an attempt to assassinate one of my tormentors by weaving around his feet as he was walking. I must try this again tomorrow -- but at the top of the stairs.

I am convinced that the other prisoners here are flunkies and snitches.
The dog receives special privileges. He is regularly released - and seems to be more than willing to return. He is obviously retarded.

The bird has got to be an informant. I observe him communicating with the guards regularly. I am certain that he reports my every move. My captors have arranged protective custody for him in an elevated cell, so he is safe....For now.........

Not Liking the cold

Was in the 40's last night here in Fort Lauderdale, FL. Pulga and Carrapato had there hoodies on they did not want to get out of bed or go outside...Hope they can hold it till it warms up

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Stop Your Male from Lifting his Leg in the House

Territorial Urination

REASONS WHY YOUR MALE TERRITORIAL URINATES

In the wild, the male dog urinates not only to relieve himself (go to the bathroom), but also to let other animals know "this is his property." It is similar to a "No Trespassing" sign. The male dog chooses to urinate on objects that are higher than ground level. Outside, this will be on trees, bushes, poles, fire hydrants, etc. Other than on our prized landscaping, we normally do not mind where the male dog urinates. However, urinating inside the house is a completely different story! It is generally a universal rule that the adult male dog is not allowed to urinate anywhere inside the house. Virtually every male dog will, at one time or another, try to urinate inside the house (mark his territory) and hope to get away with it.

In the wild, only the leader of the pack (the alpha dog), is allowed to mark (urinate) on the boundaries and den areas of his territory. Because we as humans do not mark our territory inside our homes (our dens) in the form of urination, the male dog feels he has the right to do so. It is for this reason that the male dog will urinate on the ends of couches, chairs, walls, door jams, etc.

CORRECTING THE PROBLEM

Although the procedure I am about to give you sounds a little odd. It works! But it only works if you follow it closely. We first must take the male's urine odor away from the area where he has marked inside the house. To do so, first clean the area with an ivory soap and water solution. Then after drying the area, spray 50% white vinegar and 50% water solution over the area. (The reason you spray the area with a white vinegar solution is that urine is primarily ammonia. Ammonia is basic and vinegar is acidic. When combined together, the ammonia and vinegar neutralize each other.)

The next step is for you to mark the area with new type of scent. Your scent is going to be hot Tabasco sauce. That's right! Hot Tabasco sauce. You must take a dish cloth and put Tabasco sauce on it and put this cloth in the male dog's mouth for 30 second. You only have to do this once. From this point on he will never forget your scent. But if you do not do this, the procedure will not work. Then place a few drops of the Tabasco sauce in a quart of water. Pour this solution into a spray bottle and spray over the area's you have previously cleaned and sprayed the 50% vinegar solution. By doing this, you now are placing your new odor over the male dog's territory marker. Hence, you as the leader or alpha figure in the pack, are marking your territory.

Because your dog does not like to urinate where he sleeps, you should temporarily place him in a small confined area when inside the house for the next 10 days. This area should be big enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lay back down in. The correct way to determine the size of this area is to measure the distance from his nose to his rear end (not tail) and add two inches. This means the kitchen, laundry room, bathroom, and basement are all too big! The best crate or pen to use is a "sky kennel." Sky kennels are made of fiber glass and wire, are very attractive, and are very easy to clean and transport. If you elect to use a wire or safari cage, you must cover the top, both sides, and back with a sheet or blanket. Otherwise, the dog will continually howl and bark. The reason he will continually make noise is that he feels defenseless against any predator. When you cover the wire cage, it suddenly becomes the dog's own den or room. This is similar to a child's feeling towards their play fort, it's their own room or part of the world.

Your dog should sleep in the this "den" (sky kennel) overnight. You will then take him outside first thing in the morning. Remember, he has just awaken and must let go of his excess reserve (urinate.) When you come back inside the house, the dog must go directly back into the "den." The key is, when the dog is inside your home, he is in his "den" during this 10 day period. You may take him outside as often as you wish to exercise, urinate and defecate. But when the dog comes inside... it's back in the den!

This procedure should be continued for 10 days. For the next 10 days the dog will not be able urinate anywhere in your home. Why? Because when he is in your home, he is in his new den. After the 10 day period, the dog is allowed out of the den only under close supervision in your home. My definition of "close supervision" is that your complete and undivided attention is focused on the dog. If the phone rings, put the dog back in the den and then answer the phone, etc. This procedure should be done for the next 14 days. At the end of the second faze period your dog should be completely housebroken. If you find that the dog has regressed any part or form of the housebreaking, begin the procedure from the first step.

place him in a small confined area when inside the house for the next 10 days. This area should be big enough for him to stand up, turn around, and lay back down in. The correct way to determine the size of this area is to measure the distance from his nose to his rear end (not tail) and add two inches. This means the kitchen, laundry room, bathroom, and basement are all too big! The best crate or pen to use is a "sky kennel." Sky kennels are made of fiber glass and wire, are very attractive, and are very easy to clean and transport. If you elect to use a wire or safari cage, you must cover the top, both sides, and back with a sheet or blanket. Otherwise, the dog will continually howl and bark. The reason he will continually make noise is that he feels defenseless against any predator. When you cover the wire cage, it suddenly becomes the dog's own den or room. This is similar to a child's feeling towards their play fort, it's their own room or part of the world.

Your dog should sleep in the this "den" (sky kennel) overnight. You will then take him outside first thing in the morning. Remember, he has just awaken and must let go of his excess reserve (urinate.) When you come back inside the house, the dog must go directly back into the "den." The key is, when the dog is inside your home, he is in his "den" during this 10 day period. You may take him outside as often as you wish to exercise, urinate and defecate. But when the dog comes inside... it's back in the den!

This procedure should be continued for 10 days. For the next 10 days the dog will not be able urinate anywhere in your home. Why? Because when he is in your home, he is in his new den. After the 10 day period, the dog is allowed out of the den only under close supervision in your home. My definition of "close supervision" is that your complete and undivided attention is focused on the dog. If the phone rings, put the dog back in the den and then answer the phone, etc. This procedure should be done for the next 14 days. At the end of the second faze period your dog should be completely housebroken. If you find that the dog has regressed any part or form of the housebreaking, begin the procedure from the first step.

Article compliments of American Canine Assoc.